The Goodbye Cruise

As the big move to Australia neared, Jesse decided he would also make a living traveling. He resigned from his prestigious engineering job and signed on as guest entertainer on Princess Cruises for a four month contract. He was to embark two weeks before my flight to Sydney. He was able to pull some strings and get me on board for his first sail! The 10 day itinerary included St Kitts, St Lucia, Barbados, Antigua, St Thomas, and Princess Cays.

On February 18th, Jesse’s parents said, “Bon Voyage!” to us and we were on the Atlantic Ocean sailing towards the Eastern Caribbean. The first two days at sea involved us devouring the delicious gourmet meals, exploring the ship, watching movies on the big screen on the top deck, and of course, Skywalker’s Nightclub each night as Jesse entertained the 50+ year old crowd and a small assortment of 20-something year olds.


St Kitts involved a somewhat harrowing taxi ride to a small locals beach, where we found a dog chasing a monkey, great snorkeling with eels, eagle rays, and sea anemones, and $2 St Kitts brewskies. The green-brown mountains plunged into the crystal blue ocean whilst skiffs puttered about. An assortment of sun-kissed tourist wandered around with their cruise ship towels and cameras, as natives attempted to sell everything from fresh aloe juice to hair braiding to pictures with baby monkeys with diapers on.

Of course, each native just happened to “rescue the baby monkey from some environmental hazard and is raising it like one of its own.” Though, I am convinced the little monkeys were captured involuntarily from the mountainside before their mothers could retaliate, and enslaved for individual greed and prosperity. I just hope they are well fed, happy little monkeys, and that when they get too big for tourist photos, they are released into the wilderness to roam free and are able to fend for themselves, including finding food and taunting/running from floppy dogs.

All in all, St Kitts was beautiful and I look forward to revisiting and trying out some diving. At port in St Lucia, we found a touristy type boat tour which took us, with inclusive Piton beer, to a harbor near the Pitons, twin active volcanos. There we were herded to taxi vans and journeyed through lush tropical rainforests to the drive thru volcano. I had originally pictured a classic neon drive-thru Vegas style sign reading “Drive-thru Volcano Here” at the base of a volcano with red hot lava churning at the top and a small tunnel excavated in the side of the rock which you could take your car through. Needless to say, when we pulled aside a barren, boiling sulfur pit with no sign of cooled magma, I was slightly disappointed, but still happy that I was finally seeing an active volcano. The van then took us to a waterfall which was less of a tropical destination and more of a local’s bath house. Upon watching a native scrub his feet with a rock at the base of the falls, we decided against taking a dip. Still, I was pleased to have seen how islanders use their beautiful land. We were then shuttled back to the boat which took us to a small beach surrounded by a flourishing tropical rainforest and no roads in sight. After inquiring at the local dive shop the best place to snorkel, we entered the warm water under a green mountain and were treated to 30 foot visibility and the most beautiful aqua blue-green water I have ever seen. Swarms of baitfish flowed around us as we made our way to a small cave carved out of the cliffs above us. The cave was intimidating at first sight but we quickly realized we were experienced enough on snorkel gear to swim through and were rewarded with schools of cave fish, sea fan walls, and nothing to eat us. We took turns photographing everything we saw, including a lobster-crustacean thing.

Upon returning to the ship, I was met by yet another one of Jesse’s famous surprises. He had managed to book a turtle snorkeling excursion for minimal price the next day in Barbados. I was elated and quickly got my camera ready to go. The islanders were playful and fun: I wouldn’t mind a job on a boat like that! We were taken just offshore to an area of low visibility, but with heaps of hungry turtles. The island men got in the water with us and fed squid to the turtles, keeping their attention (and making for great photos) for nearly an hour before other boats arrived and stole the turtles from us. It was so amazing, though I don’t completely agree with hand feeding endangered creatures. We were moved to a quiet area on the ocean and were fed island punch and Barbados beer while permitted to jump off the bow and swim about. A dance party flowing with rum punch on the return voyage leaves my memory vague other than trying a tamarino ball at port. The video of that is relatively hilarious in my opinion, though Jesse was less than amused at my antics which I quite regret.

In Antigua we decided it was time for SCUBA. We went on a private, one man operation and saw some beautiful reefs, though nothing specifically memorable comes to mind other than a few spotted drums which have become an affection of both Jesse and me. The owner/captain/DM and Jesse made a deal in which Jesse would build the company website in exchange for free dives every time he visited Antigua.

The morning we arrived in St Thomas, I arose early and had a breakfast sandwich (best thing on the ship), excited to catch the ferry to St John. But as with all my travels, things didn’t go quite as planned due to my stinginess and lack of proper planning/research. I get so anxious when I want to be somewhere and can’t get there quickly enough. Regardless, we finally got the 10am ferry to St John, and got a taxi to Leinster Bay. The snorkeling in Leinster Bay around Waterlemon Cay is incredible due to the abundance of sea turtles there. The reef around the cay is flourishing in corals and plants, but somewhat lacking in fish – I have no idea why. In any case, it is one of my favorite spots due to the turtles alone. They are so used to snorkelers that you can get right next to them for great photos. We also saw an eagle ray, many sea cucumbers (Jesse’s favorite of the day), and other odd and end fish and plant species. We had only a short time before needing to get back to the ferry to get to the ship before casting off, and as we were in Leinster Bay (quite far from anything), there were no taxis coming around at 2:15pm.
We started walking and ended up hitchhiking with an older couple, who took us to Trunk Bay where we easily got on a taxi and to the ferry to Red Hook. We had plenty of time to stop in for a drink at Duffy’s; and by a drink, I mean a monkey, a parrot, a race car shot, and some beers ha! PJ, the resident bartender, was there in true form to delight us with all the toys.

Since we decided to go to St John, I didn’t see much of St Thomas this trip, but plan on returning to do some of the diving Jesse now recommends.

Princess Cays was the last stop on the cruise. And it easily had the coldest water I’ve ever experienced in the Caribbean. I did not get in, but Jesse did and said the snorkeling was cool due to a grouper under the dock. We walked through the tide pools, found a deserted section of Bahamian beach, and acquired comical memories.



While the cruise was truly wonderful, each passing day brought on the looming reality of our long term separation. The last night on board was extraordinary, emotional, and distressing. The next day was worse.

Jesse’s father picked us up and took us back to their home in Miami for a delicious breakfast, thanks again Stella and Mark! Shortly after, I drove Jesse back to the ship via a quick stop to purchase his underwater camera.

I never expected to feel such indescribable sentiment of leaving someone as I did that day. It was the most heart wrenching temporary goodbye of my life. The uncertainty of the future, the dread of being apart, and the desire to share all future experiences and adventures flooded my emotions. Questions arose in my head to cause even more anguish. When will we see each other again? Where? What does our future hold? Is it worth the long term separation? Do I need time to grow on my own? What if something happened to him, or me, that resulted in never seeing each other again? I don’t know what I would do, and I still don’t know what I would do. All I know is that I would be lost emotionally, and I hope the day never comes, as anyone does with a loved one.

The drive back home was full of dubious thoughts. And a stop in PSL to visit Erin and eat some nomulous focaccia bread. Saying goodbye to two people in one day…rough.

Upon arriving home, I made the final preparations for the big move. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2990313&id=2034929&l=43353708e8

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